Article:Selecting the correct vehicle for your requirements.
By Roger Risk
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This is the continuation of an article by Roger Risk. In the last edition Roger discussed comfort size and fuel type amongst other things. To see the first part of the article click on this link Generators The purchase and installation of a generator is one of the most controversial pieces of equipment in the Motorhome fraternity. A generator should only be considered as a standby if all other systems fail. Consideration should be given to the purchase of additional solar panels and batteries before the outlay of a generator. Fresh Water Most vehicles carry a minimum of 100 litres of water delivered through a pressurised pump or hand pump system. With on-board showers you will have a tendency to use it like home - long showers, filling the sink to wash up etc. Therefore we are always looking at ways to store and carry more water. At a minimum, 160 litres will last the frugal motorhomer about 3 days with showers. The installation of water filters is a good idea. Some larger vehicles have two water systems - one for general use, and the other tank fully filtered for drinking water only. This would be considered ideal. Water weighs 1kg/ltr, therefore vehicles being constructed close to the GVM should be very aware of that fact. Grey Water The disposal of grey water outside the urban areas is currently overlooked, and can be dropped on the ground almost anywhere. Some larger motorhomes have limited capacity to store grey water so it can be disposed of when disposing of black water. The caravan park industry as a whole over the past couple of years have become aware of the grey and black water problem and are reluctantly installing dump points. As yet I havent heard of a cost for dumping, but it will surely come. Weight The overall weight of the vehicle should be a serious consideration as this dramatically affects your fuel economy and handling. The vehicle should be weighed after the full strip-out is completed and again when the fit out completed. These figures give the true tare and loaded weight. Remember when completed your still have to load gas, water, food and clothes. At this stage you dont want to be over the GVM of the vehicle. Currently my motorhome has a tare of 2,700 kg and a GVM 4,500kg. That is in theory a payload of 1,800 kg. Fully fueled ready to go it weights around 3,300kg. This is a real ask for a Holden 6 cylinder on gas with a auto transmission. (3 klm/ltr) The original engine conversion should have been a Ford V8 on auto gas and this would have given the vehicle greater drivability and lower engine wear. During a motorhome rally in 2002 I witnessed a disagreement between a motorhome manufacturer and a new owner who had that day discovered his motorhome was over the vehicle manufactures GVM. Not a pleasant time after spending in excess of $250,000. This voided all warranties as to the chassis of the vehicle and only allowed him to carry 400 kg of personal effects including gas and water. Even with heavy-duty springs and tyres the vehicle was still deemed to be over the manufactures compliance weight. Washing Whilst travelling, this is the bain of the motorhomer's existence. Frugal use of clothes is a must. Various ways have been devised including, washing the clothes you have on in the shower each night, or the bucket sloshing method as you drive along, or hand washing when you arrive at the days destination. My wife and I have been known to waste a half day at the laundromat washing and using the dryer, costing about $14 for the half days entertainment. We are currently trying the concept of dash and run; dropping the laundry at the Laundromat, having it done and picking it up the next day. It costs about the same but no holiday time lost. Some long term motorhomer's carry a cheap small washing machine ($400) in their vehicle or trailer and wash whenever they stop. Refrigeration The size, type and manufacturer of the refrigerator is a personal decision - the main decision is gas or electric. Usually when building your vehicle the run of thumb is bigger is better. Consideration must be given for the energy consumption of the appliance. Installing a smaller fridge doesnt necessarily equate to using less gas. Some motorhomer's opt for using a smaller fridge either gas or electric, and a gas fridge freezer giving them another option of storing things cold. 3-way fridge (12v, 240v, gas) These are similar to the old fashion kero fridges, but run more efficiently. They ar extremely power hungry consuming around 7 to 10 amps per hour on 12 or 240 volts and are not designed to run for long off the house battery(ies). They can be successfully run on 12v whilst travelling during the day then switched to gas or 240v when stopped. When setting up at the end of the day the fridge operates best when level to within 3 to 5 degrees. This ensures the flame of the burner is vertical in the burning chamber. The installation and venting of the fridge has a great deal to do with its efficiency.Even some new vehicles manufactures as still getting this aspect wrong. The newer tropical type fridge now on the market is another step ahead in efficiency. A "T" in the identification plate on the door can identify these fridges. Porta-gas consumption with a gas fridge, hot water pilot light and stove used twice a day would use a 9 kg gas bottle in about 19 days. Electric only These are purpose build and similar to a domestic fridge with a compressor running from a 12v battery or 240v with inverter. Your house batteries being trickle charged from 64 or 80 watt solar panels would draw around 40 watts per day. They run very efficiently even during very hot weather. If the conditions are right you may wish to turn them off overnight as the noise is quite distracting. Storage A structured storage system is most beneficial as it saves clutter. Ideally the wire basket system on racks works great; however you will notice most motorhome manufactures insist in putting draws everywhere. Due to the compact living environment you will quickly find that there is a place for everything and everything should be in its place. Awnings The addition of an awning to any recreational vehicle greatly increases the outdoor liveability of the vehicle. The major awning types are similar in design and only differ in the way they are erected. A big draw back is neither designs like windy conditions. There is nothing worse than rising from bed at 2am the fold up the awning, as the wind has come up. © 2006 Gail Bennett (motorhominglifestyle.com). If you would like
to reproduce this article on your website please contact gail@motorhominglifestyle.com |